Captured Event

January, 23 2003 - Sell-Out Savors Vintage Fattoria Bibbiani Pulignano, 1968

What: Small Vineyards of Italy Wine Tasting

Where: Denver Athletic Club

When: January 23, 2003

Host(s): Denver Chapter of American Wine Society

Introductions: Joe Hubbard

Speaker: Antonio Sanguineti from Siena, Italy; Doug Fugate and Josh Hansen of Small Vineyards

Of note: Antonio Sanguineti flew in from Siena, Italy for this event

Sponsors: Small Vineyards of Lakewood, CO http://www.smallvineyardsllc.com

Quote of the evening: "May the best days of your past be the worst days of your future," spoken in Italian, by Antonio Sanguineti

Menu: Italian meats and cheeses, fruit, and decadent chocolates

Attendance: 120 - Sold out in 36 hours

Attire: Business casual

Special Thanks: Denver Athletic Club donated their Grand Ball Room for this event

Hors D'Oeuvres:: Chef Darren Herbst, Denver Athletic Club

Information: Please call Joe Hubbard @ 720-931-7350 and visit www.americanwinesociety.com

Event Coordinator: Joe Hubbard

Planning Committee: Todd Torgerson, Shultz Hartgrove, Jeff and Tina Sporkin, Darren

Board of Directors: Chairman Joe Hubbard, Vice President John Watkins, Secretary Shawna Clark, Sargent of Arms Barbara Fisher

Blacktie Photos by: Elizabeth Byrnes

Fattoria Bibbiani Pulignano, 1968
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By Stacy Ohlsson

On January 23, The Denver Chapter of the American Wine Society gathered at the Denver Athletic Club to experience “Small Vineyards of Italy," hosted by Doug Fugate and Josh Hansen of Small Vineyards. Reading this story will be greatly enhanced if you use an Italian accent, as that is how we experienced the presentation of the wines (from vintner Antonio Sanguineti from Siena, Italy). Antonio Sanguineti, a second-generation winemaker, is a foremost authority on classic Italian winemaking. Antonio’s father bought this vineyard as a gift for his wife in 1965. The Sanguineti goal has been to make “not a popular wine, but an important wine." His exceptional knowledge, palate, and appreciation for the art of oenology has made him a central figure in the emergence of Tuscan wines in the international market. Doug, Josh, and their three partners, from Small Vineyards spend a great deal of their time discovering the finest family-owned vineyards of Italy for exceptionally high quality wines that American palates will appreciate. Their goal continues to be met. Doug and Josh, along with their partners are not distributors of wine; they are an import company. Most of the wines they find have never been imported to the United States. Close relationships with the Italian vineyards they have discovered have given them the privilege of having input into the type of grapes and the length of time that the wines age, creating vintages which are appreciated by connoisseurs. Why “small vineyards”? All of the grapes picked at these small, family-owned vineyards are picked by hand, usually in just one day, because distinguishing whether a grape is ripe for picking can only be done by vigilant individuals, and only the flawless grapes make it to the barrel. In large commercial vineyards, machines pick the grapes according to size, not ripeness. This is the ultimate difference: commercial -- three to four bottles per stock; small vineyards – ONE bottle per stock, e.g.; the small vineyards' wines are genuine. Also, by aging the wine in small barrels (roughly 60 gallons), they are able to control the age of the wine, especially important when blending grapes. Founded almost a year ago, Denver's Chapter of the American Wine Society (AWS), with the leadership of Joe Hubbard, has nearly outgrown itself already. The monthly events are well attended by an eclectic group, from schoolteachers and local wine distributors to heads of major companies. THere is always a comfortable setting at AWS events and all who attend are equals as budding connoisseurs (with the exception of the guest speakers), since the wines are so unique and the history behind them so vast. When the events are held at the Denver Athletic Club (as they usually are), Chef Darren Herbst creates a lovely array of appetizers specifically designed to enhance the type of wine being tasted. Authentic German dishes for Riesling, "Tapas" with Spanish wines, and so on. And in November Darren creates the menu for the annual "Wine Taster's Dinner." For the tour through the “Small Vineyards of Italy” the eight bottles of wine that were sampled included: Tre Donne, 2001 Rocro Arneis: The most recent name of this fifth-generation vineyard is Tre Donne, three daughters. Their father was so disappointed to not have a son to run the company, but in the end, the Tre Donnes won more awards and acclaim than the previous four generations (run by men...). The Rocro Arneis, a crisp, clean, non-oaked white, has a wonderful weight and an aroma of pears and flowers. Italians consider this wine to be vastly superior to any chardonnay. It ranges in price from $10 to $12 per bottle. Castelpietraio, Tegrino 2000 (55 percent Sangiovese and 45 percent Cabernet: There are over 300 types of grape in Italy. "The Baron," running this vineyard which started in the 1400's, has, by blending Sangiovese grapes with select others, created a true "Super Tuscan." "Blending grapes is like creating an orchestra: experiment here and there, use what works, and send the rest back for aging." Eventually it's approachable by most... By the way, "The Baron" is considered to be a very serious vintner ("seriously interesting"). He dons a double breasted suit and pencil-thin mustache, puts real gold on his wine labels and uses only the finest equipment in his vineyard. After all, (in an Italian accent) "I can afford it; the property is paid for." Yes, in the 1400's. It ranges in price from $10 to $12 per bottle. Podere Ciona, Chianti Classico Tiserva 1998: “This is a thinking man’s wine.” In an absolutely gorgeous setting including three castles, the grapes for this Chianti are grown at an elevation of 2,000 feet, and then aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. The high elevation distinguishes this wine: an aroma of red fruits and spices and well balanced, and it's velvety and lasting on the palate. It can reach its peak in 12 to 15 years. A treasured wine: only one variety is produced here, and only 400 cases per year. That’s spillage for some commercial wineries! It ranges in price from $15 to $17 per bottle. Always look for the rooster seal on the neck of the bottle for a “true” Chianti. A sideline about the straw baskets on Chianti bottles: They are officially called “fiasco." To prevent breakage of the thin glass bottles by clumsy workers, one vintner created the straw basket. He called it “fiasco” because that’s what happens when a bottle is broken. The next two wines are from Antonio Sanguineti's vineyard. With his expertise, Antonio overcame some hardship with weather extremes and created some exceptional Brunello. Antonio Sanguineti, Brunello, 1996 and 1997: Brunello means “something dark," but his 1996 wine is incredibly light and uplifting. These wines are from thick-skinned grapes and aged in black pepper barrels where the wine to wood ratio is very high. They can be opened very young, or when blended with a cabernet grape, they may be enjoyed ten to twelve years later. The 1996 is sold out, however, one bottle is available at the Denver Art Museum "Uncorked" event on May 9 and 10. The 1997 sells for $40-45; it's suggested that you buy it now and open it in 2005. Fattoria, Bibbiani Pulignano, 1968: A virtual miracle, this wine was recently found in the cellars of Bibbiani when carpenters tore out a two-hundred-year-old staircase. What did they find underneath? One thousand bottles of pristine Pulignano from 1968, forgotten by time! Pulignano itself is a specific, pure clone of Sangiovese that grows only in five acres in the world. It is harmonic and the ultimate in refinement. Tre Donne, 1998 Barolo Grapes for the Barolo are picked from 50-year-old vines. The Barolo has a vibrant fruit taste with more than just a hint of tannin and "a bed of nail undercurrent." This wine can be aged for up to thirty years. It ranges in price from $30-$35 per bottle. Trentino Moscato Giallo 2001: A “gregarious and funny Hungarian transplant that lives life large” runs the De Tarczal vineyard. If you had your eyes closed and someone waved a glass of this Muscat under your nose, you'd swear they had a huge bouquet of flowers. An unusual Moscato, Fugate & Partners looked for two years before finding a petite white grape to create a unique style and quality. Emitting a strong and distinctive perfume, this wine is dry, not too sweet. Unlike most Muscat’s, there is no effervescence. Experiencing the fragrance was such a treat since it is very rarely imported and it is the only wine this vineyard makes. This Moscato would complement a warm seafood salad or a rich, dark chocolate. Anyone is welcome to attend Denver’s AWS tastings, however, membership in this national nonprofit organization is required to continue with the Denver chapter. Check out http://www.americanwinesociety.com/ Big thanks to the DAC for waiving all fees in their partnership with Denver’s AWS. Mark your calendars for upcoming Denver AWS wine tastings: February 27: Cuvason Vineyards/simulated barrel tasting at the Westin March 27: Cakebread Vineyards 30th Birthday with Dennis Cakebread at the Denver Athletic Club April 24: Bordeaux with Todd Torgerson at the DAC (F.Y.I.) May 9 and 10: “DAM Uncorked” tasting and auction at the Denver Art Museum May 29: Petite Syrah at the DAC with Claude Robbins, President of the International Wine Guild June 19: North American vs. South American Wines with Tony Coltrin from Mondovi, at the DAC July 24: Annual Sparkler: Champagne, sushi, strawberries and chocolate at the DAC rooftop August 20: Spanish wines and art at the Denver Art Museum with sommelier Phil Larimore September 18: Sommelier’s "blind tasting" with Master Jay Fletcher at the DAC October 30: Full Moon Zin Party at the DAC November 20: Annual Wine Taster's Dinner for charity at the DAC with Claude Robbins